Toured Home
A global sojourn.
Kanchanaburi and Bangkok.
Something’s wrong if I’m thinking. “ok, let’s get this out of the way”. It’s just that I’ve waited too damn long in between blogs and I’ve moved on (I’m currently in Florence, Italy) and I just wanna yell and scream and jump up and down about Italy!! Sigh…but I DO need to go back and record ALL parts, IN order, so bear with me. I’m sure once I get going I’ll be like, oh yeah, this was great!
So after touring northern Thailand, I hopped on a plane and flew just over an hour down to Bangkok. From there, I was going to take the train northwest to Kanchanaburi, but the schedule just didn’t coincide well with my arrival in Bangkok so I chose to take a taxi for the 2 hour drive, which turned into 3.5, but I was happy just sitting in the back with the a/c and looking out the window. Kanchanaburi is like “the country” – think “upstate NY” – many people asked me why would I go there? Well, first off I needed to stretch my trip out a bit and go slow – Thailand is inexpensive and I was trying to save money, and I was also trying to push back getting to Italy (my next destination) until the spring season. Having spoken to some people who had been there, it sounded like a good place for a couple of days to enjoy nature before taking on the big city. If you’re thinking you’ve heard of Kanchanaburi, it’s probably because you studied it in your teens – it’s where the The Bridge On The River Kwai actually exists, and obviously the movie was filmed here too. That’s pretty cool, I thought, to touch a piece of history that I had studied and knew a bit about. The town is all about WWII, the bridge, the cemetery, the sights where the prisoners were kept and made to work in grueling conditions. Not very uplifting, but important nonetheless. My hotel was right on the River Kwai, and a 5 minute walk to the bridge. I have to say I was nervous walking across the bridge – I’m afraid of heights, and there are no guard rails so it’s really not safe, and if a train comes you’re just supposed to move over, so I’m told. Here’s some pics.
The River Kwai from my balcony.
- Sunset on the River Kwai
The Bridge on The River Kwai!
The Bridge, where I climb up.
No handrails…holding my breath.
Walking the Bridge
View from the Bridge – my hotel is right past that dock on the left.
Huge Buddha can be seen from the bridge.
The other reason I waned to come to Kanchanaburi is because it has one of the prettiest waterfalls in Thailand for hiking – it’s called Erawan Falls. There are seven levels and it wasn’t always easy but I made it to the top, proudly! Interesting side note – I met a guy on my way up who is from Russia and his mother lives in the Ukraine. We had a really interesting conversation about Putin and how he sees the current situation. Obviously, all my info is from American sources so it was really eye-opening to hear his side of it. He wasn’t necessarily a Putin supporter in general, but he did support what Putin was doing, claiming that both the reigning gov’t in Crimea and the group that is taking over are BOTH fascists and corrupt, and Putin is protecting the Russians who make up most of the population of Crimea. Of course there are arguments on both sides of that, but I just liked conversing and hearing the point of view of a real insider. Because of the current situation, he had changed his plans and was leaving Kanchanaburi the following day to fly to the Ukraine to help his mother. A lot has happened since that conversation, and I do hope they are safe and well.
Erawan Falls, Level 1. Most people go to the first 4 levels because they are easiest to get to.
Level 3, I think. Clear, crisp, beautiful water
Need to cool my feet!
Level 4
The view…
Climbing up..
And up….
Level 5
Damn, it’s hot!
Level 6
I made it!
Happy me!
OK, on to Bangkok!! It’s amazing to me that I actually went to Thailand on my own, I guess I was nervous traveling alone especially at a time when there is a bit of political unrest in Bangkok. By touring the north first, I gave myself more time between the violent protests in Bangkok due to the elections and my arrival. I also had preconceived thoughts about what Bangkok was going to be like – I had heard the traffic was unbearable (true, but you don’t have to travel by car in the city), and I just pictured it like a seedy red light district – 42nd street 30 years ago. I pictured all these Thai people trying to rip off anyone who isn’t Asian, and I guess I went in with my guard up. But the truth is, it’s not like that at all! My adorable little boutique hotel, Seven Hotel (www.sleepatseven.com) , was recommended by a friend that I hike with – her ex-sis and bro-in-law own it. That was good enough for me! And it was in a GREAT location – Sukhumvit 31, walking distance to the train. Being that I’m from NY, I have a street sense about me that says don’t fuck with me, I know you’re behind me, no, I’m not talking to you, stranger. Ok, maybe it’s not exactly like that, but I don’t think I look lost when I walk around, even if I am. Because if I am, I will duck into a pastry shop and ask for help, but you on the street aren’t gonna take advantage of my vacant tourist stare. Anyway, I really was comfortable walking around. I rode the subway like a pro – it’s fun learning how to do things in new cities, because every city is different. I bargained the cab drivers down to what I wanted, even walked away until he drove up to me and obliged. And I saw unbelievable, beautiful sights.
There are so many temples, of course, but the big highlight for me was Wat Pho. Oh – I did get scammed once here – not so bad though. There are guys who are taxi drivers who stand at some of these sights and “help” you get your bearings, show you where to go…but they will tell you that the sight you wanna see is closed until…well, if it’s 11:00 it’s closed till 2:30 so that he can take you around to see x,y, and z and then drop you back off here just in time for the opening. I had wanted to first go to the Grand Palace, and I was standing within earshot of an American family getting the schpiel being told it was closed until 2:30, although I did not know it was a schpiel at the time, and when I chimed in to inform them that I believed Wat Po was open and it was just next door, the cab driver nodded yes, and lost his “almost victims” because he thought I knew what I was talking about. I didn’t, but he confirmed it was open so we all walked over to Wat Pho. I waited till 2:30 to walk back over to the Grand Palace, and as I walked along the white wall, I listened to the speaker system loudly telling me and every other visitor, that the Palace is open everyday from 8 until 6, and if anyone tries to tell me otherwise, please do not believe them. I laughed. At least I didn’t lose any money.
Wat Pho is known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, and houses the most enormous Buddha in Thailand at 160 ft. It is also the home of the original Thai massage school, and a working monastery with monks in residence and a school for them. There are numerous chedis which contain the ashes of the royal family. The Buddha is covered in gold leaf supported by a base made of glass mosaic. His feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying symbols of identification for Buddhas. It is breathtaking. I stayed a long time just admiring him. Even the detail on the ceiling and walls of the structure that houses the Buddha was fascinating. Real artistry. The entire complex is jaw-dropping. I could’ve stayed all day, really. And I’m sure you will flip through these pics rather quickly, but for me, when I look at them, I remember turning each corner and just being wowed.
Entrance to Wat Pho
Cool guard
The House of the Reclining Buddha
He’s too big to fit in any one pic, but let’s start with his head…
As we walk down the length of him, we can glimpse different angles
These are part of his legs – maybe the lady in front gives a sense of scale.
And his feet
He is LONGGGGG!!
Toes
The bottoms of his feet with inlaid mother-of-pearl
Here’s a pic that gives a sense of scale
And from behind…
I love that I could walk around him entirely.
His hair – the details are incredible.
The glass mosaic detail that is on the base.
Offerings.
I can’t grasp that these are all made from vegetables and fruits and flowers. Gorgeous!
The chedis
The grounds are beautiful.
Welcome to Wat Pho!
Each chedi is detailed in a different color mosaic.
There are over one thousand buddhas at Wat Pho
Dirty on the left, clean on the right.
This buddha is covered in black wax or paint in order to receive his new building.
They cover the black part of the buddha while it is being cleaned.
Sparkling!
Unreal detail..
Jewish???
On the right and left you see the smaller buddhas
Me, sweating, and kneeling on the carpet for the buddhas.
Standing buddha ( Standing, sitting, reclining, sleeping,,,,)
Young monks on their way to class
Lessons under the trees!
Have you had your fill of temples yet? Not so fast – one more sight to see – the Grand Palace, which is where the royal family lives and the throne halls, and also where some gov’t offices are, and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Pretty impressive. Built in 1782 by King Rama I, it is a HUGE square block, but not a normal block, more like 55 acres (really, 55) surrounded on all 4 sides by a white wall. Each side is over 1/4 mile long. Shiny gold and glass mosaics…
Inside the walls, pretty amazing.
A scaled model of the entire Grand Palace.
Had it not been for my Thai massage at Wat Pho, I would’ve collapsed. Thank goodness I have the best Italian restaurant, Bella Napoli, on the corner near my hotel – yes, I said Italian! You don’t expect me to survive on Thai food 24/7 do you? Do you know that Asians eat the exact same food for all three meals throughout the day? Yeah, that’s right – so I’m up to my ears in rice and veggies and fried eggs. So yeah, some pizza, some Italian pasta, some tomato and mozzarella was just perfect.
Thailand! Sawa dee Ka :-)
As my plane descended over the green hills, a slow grin spread across my face. I knew I’d like it here. I mean, a place called “The Land of Smiles” would be hard not to like, right? I started my Thailand tour in the northern part of the country, Chiang Mai. It was Sunday afternoon when I made my way to the old city and found my little hotel. The old city is surrounded by a moat which I found magical – built in 1296, the King squared off 1.5 km and walled in his “new city” but the moat is the only original remaining structure. There are about 30 temples within the old city walls, including a school for the monks who are all too happy to hang out and chat. Walking the streets feels very intimate and non-touristy. There are loads of food carts, local Thai people doing their crafts, and just living their day-to-day. Every Sunday night is the Sunday Market, and I was all too happy to sample the foods, check out the crafts being offered for sale, and drop in on a couple of great bands playing at the open-air bars.
Sunday Market, Chiang Mai
Sunday Market, Chiang Mai
Sunday Market, Chiang Mai
Enoki mushrooms and bacon. Mmmmm.
Buddha in a small temple in Chiang Mai, old city.
Thai band, Sunday Market
The next morning I ventured out to start touring some temples. Grabbed a quick breakfast at the corner restaurant, and then headed half a block to the first on the list. Twenty minutes later, I was running back to my room hoping to get my head over the toilet rather than the street. Can’t complain though, I mean I can, but I won’t. Getting sick only twice during all of this traveling is pretty damn lucky. I haven’t even had a cold or cough this whole time! Watch me jinx myself.
The following day I met a couple of friends for lunch – Gary and Emily, both from Cali but traveling solo – and had my first Pad Thai in Thailand!! I LOVE Pad Thai, and it was dee-fuckin-licious!!! After lunch I took a 6 hour stroll through the shops, through another market, through the temples I had missed the prior day, and just loved everything. I found this one shop that sells crafts and fabric items, like pillows & bed covers, made by the Karen tribe up in the mountains of northern Thailand – beautiful hand work. Found a gallery that had these whimsical nudes done by a Burmese artist that I think I may have posed for. They also have an oil painting that I am dying for…big birthday coming up….ahhhhhh….should I splurge? Still thinking about it. Wait, this whole trip is a splurge. I have no right spending another dime!!! Sigh… I then hit the market just outside the old city walls and got high from the offerings of fabrics and food there…and that just fueled me to keep going. The temples are unreal here – very different from Bali. They are GOLD and ornately decorated, and the Buddhas are…well they’re EVERYWHERE!! Big, small, standing, sitting, sleeping…click, click, click!! It’s like jewelry on display – such intricate work, sparkle and shine. I know I’m posting a ton of pics here, but it’s my blog and I’ll post if I want to, post if I want to, post if I want to.
My first authentic Pad Thai!
309 steps up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
Top of the steps, Wat Phra Doi Suthep
Golden spire, Wat Phra Doi Suthep
Crystal Buddah, Wat Phra Doi Suthep
More buddhas…
And more…
I think that’s enough for now…
OK, so I know I said I wouldn’t go visit any zoos, and I didn’t, but I did visit Tiger Kingdom. I’m not proud of it, and I’m not sure what’s going on there with the animals, but I couldn’t get my questions answered satisfactorily either on the web or when I was there. The original tigers are said to be rescued, but they breed these tigers so now all of them have been born and raised in captivity. As a result, the people who work at Tiger Kingdom say, the tigers are used to being around people. They are obviously fed very well, and I did confirm on the internet (cause, you know, the internet doesn’t lie) that tigers sleep 18-20 hours a day which is how “they explain” why they’re mostly sleeping – “they say” they are NOT drugged. Jury’s still out on that one. They don’t allow the tigers to be near people once they turn 3 years old because they are unpredictable. Bottom line, I don’t really know how to say this other than literally – I laid down on a bunch of tigers and played with the cubs. Selfish, I know. But….ok, no buts.
NOT a stuffed tiger.
I know this is crazy.
Who doesn’t love a belly rub?
What big PAWS you have!!
Pure love
He had wrapped his paw around my hand – a snuggler in the making!
Wow right?
Dumb…but I just had to.
Needs a blowout
Meowww.
I visited an Orchid Farm…
I really wanted to see more of Northern Thailand so I took a day tour – a very LONG day tour (13 hours) – up to Chiang Rai, and to the borders of Laos and Myanmar. The tour van was packed full – I think 14 people – and luckily I ended up next to the sweetest, prettiest girl – Angelique, 25, from Canada – and we chatted for hours. We visited The White Temple, aka Wat Rong Khun. Bizarre!! It was designed by Chalermchai Kositpipat in 1997 as an unconventional Buddhist temple devoted to art and thought. From a distance, it looks like white icing on a very ornate gingerbread house glistening in the sun. But upon closer inspection….what the f..???? It’s more like Revenge of the Living Dead! Hands by the hundreds reach out of the ground, some holding skulls, ALL provoking thoughts of sin, or hell. There are ghoulish heads hanging from trees and monster-like creatures buried waist deep in the dirt. Stone guards beckon you over the bridge toward the temple….toward redemption? I think it’s toward the Gates of Heaven, guarded by the Angel of Death. The bridge rises up and away from the brew of hellish figures beneath it, but once inside the temple you are bombarded with fresh painted murals of the world’s current atrocities, and pop culture icons. I suppose it’s an apocalyptic end of world with our current demons and heroes – begs the question of who will save us…The twin towers are depicted with a plane crashing into it, George Bush (let me be clear – atrocity), Michael Jackson, The Matrix, Avatar, even Spiderman. It’s CRAY-ZEE!! No pictures were allowed to be taken inside the temple – believe me, I would have, but didn’t want to end up in the mural. Oh, one last thing – the only part of this entire mass of buildings that is NOT white is the GOLDEN TOILETS – only the outside is gold, the interior is more like a really bad port-o-potty/hole in the ground/watch-where-you-step experience.
The White Temple with the reflecting lake in front
Ascending the bridge, The White Temple
Pit of Hell at entrance to bridge
Ummm…they don’t actually groan, but it looks like they might…
Tree decor
Monster lawn ornaments
Another view with gardens
The GOLD bathrooms – the inside was so gross I almost puked.
Next we made our way up to the Golden Triangle where Thailand borders both Myanmar and Laos. We took a boat on the Mekong River across to Laos – just to a shitty tourist market with “real designer bags” – and another crazy touristy market at the Myanmar border but we couldn’t cross over that one.
Welcome to Laos!
We then went up to visit the Long-necked Karen and Akha Tribes. About 150 years ago, these tribal people migrated from China down to Thailand, Burma, Laos, and Vietnam. This particular tribe is originally from Burma but fled during the civil war and sought refuge in the northern hills of Thailand. The Thai gov’t allows them to stay on this piece of land and farm it, but they are not allowed to leave it and have no rights as Thai citizens. They live in villages way up in the hills where they farm and weave fabrics and make scarves and hats and crafts to sell to tourists. But the most interesting thing about them is that the women wear these solid brass rings around their necks, an old custom that was created to prevent tigers from killing them. They begin at age 5 and add one per year until they have 37 rings. Then they are considered to have the perfect amount of rings. They never take them off, except once a year when they are being added to. They die wearing them and are buried with them. These rings are HEAVY. At least 10-15 lbs. It appears that the rings lengthens their necks, but it’s the weight of these rings that presses down on their shoulders so that their clavicles appear to be part of their necks. The threat of tigers doesn’t exist anymore, but the culture and traditions do. And tourism probably drives this as well.
Long Neck Karen Tribe
Long Neck Karen tribe
Long Neck Karen Tribe, young girl
Long Neck Karen Tribe, Mom and daughter
The Karen Tribe Village
The tribes of northern Thailand may not be around forever. Their customs prevent them from integrating into more modern societies and many of the members are beginning to give up these customs and traditions, showing their desire to integrate and stating that the customs are what is keeping them “jailed” in their current situations as refugees. I found them to be fascinating, wonderfully talented craftspeople, and highly persistent salespeople.
Bye, Bali.
After living in Bali for a month, I feel like I’ve started to find my groove, only to have to get ready to move on. I found some really good food places, and I even have a favorite band (Unb’rocken) that I’ve seen 3 times. This last week I just basically did some quiet things, stayed close to home, and basked in Bali’s glory. Back when I was at Komune Beach Resort I had taken a yoga class with Lisa, an Aussie expat, who I have now practiced with 3 times this week, and I have to say if anyone is in Bali and looking for a really human (read REAL person), yet incredibly knowledgable yoga teacher, she is it. She is technical, which I prefer and appreciate, so rather than having you hold poses incorrectly, she will educate you as to how every part of your body should be – and then she’ll make you feel it. We laughed and sweated and were grateful to have found each other in this big world. Wish I had a picture of the beautiful Lisa…but here’s a GREAT Bali band.
Unb’Rocken at Casa Luna
Remember when I first came to Ubud I had gone to see the Kecak and Fire Dance at the local temple? I was mesmerized by the Balinese costumes in that show. So a few days ago while having a conversation with Komang, one of the caretakers at the villa that I’m staying in, I showed her my pictures from that dance and told her I would love to get “made-up” like these Balinese characters. She looked closely at the pics, and surprisingly, she said, “that’s my cousin! She dances in that show.” Small world, wouldn’t you say? She whipped out her cell phone, called her cousin, exchanged a few brief Balinese sentences, and within 10 minutes her gorgeous cousin was standing before me and we were planning my “dress-up” session. She was on her way to dance so she was already dressed and ready – here she is…
Nonni
The next day, Nonni came over with her 6 year-old beautiful daughter Mayle, and they all transformed me into a Balinese princess…as I wished.
It really was a lot of fun. Nonni taught me how to pose like a Balinese dancer and how to hold my hands – of course her daughter, at 6, is already a complete pro, facial expressions and all. And afterwords, Komang and I had a long talk about starting a business where she will offer this to tourists as a service, just like a tour or a spa treatment. I hope to help her get this off the ground and grab this opportunity to make a better life for her and her family.
Make-up by Nonni
Beautiful Mayle
Almost ready…
Finishing touches…
I mean…MORE finishing touches…
Meryl, Princess of Bali Kecak Dance!
Mayle showing me how to stand and hold my hands – she’s got ‘tude!!
Always wanted to be a dancer…
Komang, Nonni, & Mayle, my artists!!
So I said my goodbyes to Bali, to the White Villas, my home in Ubud, to Jl Sandat, my street that I walked, to the resident roosters, the dogs that lay in the streets, the Balinese neighbors who smile and nod, and the sweet, always smiling Balinese people who touched my heart.
My Ubud home
Kitchen area
Upstairs bedroom
Ensuite Bath
And as I handed my passport to the customs agent, I had one last smack over the head of the corrupt govt here. I had overstayed my visa by one day – I didn’t know you count the day you arrive in the 30-day total – so they lead me to an office where I was told I have to pay. I didn’t have a single cent on me in rupiah. I had 18 US dollars. That’ll do. No receipt. Carry on.
Take-off for Thailand…
Green Bali
I am naturally and passionately drawn to never-before-imagined, out-of-the-box creativity and brilliance that I can discover, unwrap, dissect, engorge, suck in, and be enveloped by its ability to elevate all of my senses, and inspire and excite me in ways that only great sex can. So it was inevitable that I would find Green Village in Bali, or it would find me.
Trolling the internet one night, searching for architecturally interesting homes and hotels in Bali, I came across the wildest pictures of bamboo homes I had ever seen. They sort of resembled the futuristic homes of the Jetsons, with their oddly balanced multi-levels of living space and crazy-shaped roofs that looked like they might just ascend up into the sky. But these homes were made entirely of bamboo; forested, harvested, cured and treated right here in Bali. Not only were the structures made of bamboo, the furniture and everything in them was also made of bamboo. My eyes scanned for words while my brain begged for information. I desperately needed to read and absorb, to understand what I was looking at.
Not surprisingly, the idea and development of Green Village, and it’s predecessor The Green School, is the brainchild of famous jewelry designer John Hardy and his wife Cynthia. John and Cynthia settled in Bali more than thirty years ago where they built a highly successful international jewelry business with local Balinese artisans. Having sold that business in 2007, they focused their artistic energies on the creation of a school for children that would respect Bali’s land, traditions and culture while providing a student-centered learning environment that combines spirituality with environmental awareness and innovation. The result is a unique and inspiring environment that cultivates the minds of its students in physical, spiritual, and empowering ways and breaks the mold of the traditional classroom.
I toured this amazing, evolving creation of the Hardy’s and one thought consistently smacked me on the head. Brilliant. Physically, the structures are inspiring and challenging. For example, the classrooms don’t have walls, so the teachers and students have devised other ways to hang their art and learning surfaces, such as blackboards or whiteboards. Obviously, most of the structures are completely eco-friendly with as little impact on the earth as possible, and that “greenness” translates into everything at this school, from the self-sustaining fruit and vegetable gardens that provide home-grown lunches, to the “solar gardens”, to the community involvement of parents sharing roles as teachers and the involvement of Balinese culture in this extremely international mix of students. Currently, there are 329 students from over 50 countries. The school believes in integrating the local Balinese into this mix and offers scholarships to Bali students in an effort to satisfy its community requirement that 20% of all students are Balinese.
Spiritually, the curriculum focuses on integrating meditation and spirituality into its program through directed physical and mind exercises. For example, kindergarten students might be guided through a morning meditation by being asked to close their eyes and imagine they are butterflies, softly flying around the classroom, lifting their arms, bending their bodies, and imagining the colors of their wings. They aren’t actually told they are meditating or doing yoga forms…but they are introduced to these concepts through this type of imagery and physical movement. Just by being so connected with and literally immersed in nature I felt an undeniable spiritual energy on this outdoor campus. Walking the paths between the open-air buildings, following the river and hearing it gurgle as it flowed along, spending time observing the starlings’ behaviors in the bird sanctuary all had a profound, heightened effect on me. It made me want to be a kid again and attend this school, for sure.
Green School, entrance where parents and kids congregate, and eat!
Pick up time at Green School!
A classroom from the outside.
A classroom on the inside!
Art room
Beautiful lessons illustrated.
Love this.
Cubbies
Birds on campus
A resident
Footbridge
Garden, growing lunch…
Solar garden
Another classroom
Gorgeous drawing by a student.
The central meeting structure with the offices upstairs
Art within art…
Following Green School, John, Cynthia and daughter Elora with her firm Ibuku began developing and building an entirely green community, called Green Village. Set on the Ayung River just a short drive from Green School, Green Village has risen out of the tropical landscape as an off-the-charts luxury collection of homes. It is a living, breathing brought-to-life dream, part Dr. Seuss, part Alice-in-Wonderland, and part Jetsons. And I say this only with the sincere and deepest appreciation for the fantastical imagery that their creators conjured up. The architecture follows the Bali vernacular of open-air living, while taking it to new heights, literally. The latest home is 9 levels and 8,000 SF. From the outside, it looks like oblong disks precariously stacked on top of each other by a toddler. The house is called Sharma Springs, aptly named after its Indian owners and the fresh water springs it sits on. The entrance to this house is a circular bamboo and plexiglass tunnel supporting a footbridge that leads to a circular door, hinged top and bottom that pivots open on its axis inviting and coaxing visitors inside. And then the jaw-dropping really begins. The bamboo takes on a life of its own, from supporting structures, to whirling ceilings, to winding staircases, to all sorts of furniture, romantic and playful beds, secret shelving walls that pivot to expose another room, and beyond. The balusters are slices of bamboo cut lengthwise that reveal the hollow interior shaft, called internodes, and the solid nodes. These slices alone are works of art. The bamboo flooring shows at least 6 different ways to “slice” it, whether it be on its thin side, flat side, woven and patterned, natural black bamboo or the lighter pale color, or a combination of both. While I was walking through, Rudiger Schodel was installing wire strings on a set of structural bamboo poles and creating a musical instrument. He has created this “instrument” which is so fascinating, whimsical and playful, and he hopes to inspire people with little or no musical training to give it a whirl. The sound that emanates from it is truly beautiful, and he tunes the strings with exact precision. He played for me, and then encouraged me to try while he played a wood flute and we made….well, music! For more on Rudiger, www.klangkunstwerk.ch. This house is truly a conglomeration of many artists, engineers, and creative geniuses, and has been most inspirational to me as I continue to explore my own boundary-less future.
Just behind a typical Balinese walled entrance, this appears…
Conical entrance to the most recently built home in Green Village, Sharma Springs
The front door, which is on the 4th level of the house
From the inside…
Looking down over that modern conical entrance back to the Balinese gate and house in front.
Looking up, Rudiger, a sound architect, artist and musician, is assembling his “strings on bamboo” creation – truly fascinating.
He plays it with his fingers like a harp or guitar , or with a bow like a violin.
Looking down through the levels.
Creating a masterpiece.
Fantastical bamboo architecture.
Living area.
Looking toward kitchen and dining area
Kids’ playroom
Detail of steps
Beautiful wall detail and door shape
One of many bathrooms
Just love the doors…
All furniture is designed by Ibuku
Bathrooms are pod-like stations that curl you in.
And they are all different
All bamboo but the actual bowl!
Brass leaf design in shower
Watch the shelf/wall..
It spins revealing a secret passage to the bathroom beyond..
Child’s room
From my balcony at the guest house, next door
The bottom floor patio, outdoor kitchen and spa.
As I followed the maze of this house, the obvious question became apparent. What does it feel like to live here? Lucky for me, I spent the night in the guest house of Sharma Springs to experience all that I could. The guest house is a small one-bedroom but it still delighted my senses and fed my curiosity. The house does have modern conveniences, such as a mini fridge and a/c, although the a/c wasn’t working well – the ceiling heights are so high that I think the colder air just gets lost up there somehow. There are no ceiling fans and it was a hot night, so I didn’t sleep well. Still, I enjoyed my home-grown Balinese dinner out on the porch, I showered under the huge rain-can and watched the water go through the open floor boards and hit the ground below, and luxuriated in my gorgeous bed’s fine linens while the lullaby of the jungle serenaded me. I felt whimsical, adventurous, luxurious, and satisfied that I had partaken somewhat in sustainability.
Sharma Springs Guest House
Entrance to the guest house.
Guest house bed.
From the balcony looking in.
Looking straight out from the balcony
Behind the bed is the bathroom and symmetrical steps leading up to the loft.
Bathroom with stone sinks
Shower detail
Steps leading up to loft
Climbing the steps..
The loft – cushions were being made for the daybeds…
View from the loft looking down above the bed..
View from behind the bed.
And looking out at Sharma Springs from the guest house.
Here are some other pictures from another house I toured at Green Village and from PT Bamboo Pure, the largest bamboo factory in Indonesia. If you want to really see better pictures and get more information on all of this, I strongly suggest you visit www.GreenVillageBali.com and also Elora Hardy’s company website, www.Ibuku.com. It is all fascinating and worth a trip just to Bali to explore it!
House in Green Village
Green Village
Another front door – better than any revolving door I’ve ever experienced…
Inside the home
Wish my camera could see what my eyes see!
a pod dangles from an upper level
Bar detail
Kitchen
Dining area and living area with bathroom pod on left and kitchen pantry pod on right.
A bedroom
And another…
This bed has built-in air conditioning – the vents are in the bent bamboo above the headboard.
Detail of a/c vents
Another gorgeous bath
And outdoor shower
This bed has a gorgeous carved cornice which looked like fabric to me until I got up close.
Detail of bed and night tables.
Beautiful stair detail and view.
From outside
Detail carved into rock.
Bamboo at PT Bamboo Pure
Black bamboo at PT Bamboo Pure
PT Bamboo Pure
My next destination was to John & Cynthia Hardy’s boutique hotel, Bambu Indah. The property is home to the Hardy’s and was originally developed for their family and friends to stay when they were visiting with them in Bali. John & Cynthia purchased 11 antique Javanese wedding houses in Java and had them carefully dismantled and shipped to Bali where they were lovingly re-assembled at what is now called Bambu Indah. Each house is named and has a story. I stayed in Biru house, which means “blue” and enjoyed a rustic, natural setting, astonished that these truly old homes – over 100 years – have stood the test of time and continue to give joy to those lucky enough to be sheltered by them. The floorboards in my bathroom were thin and spread far apart from wear, and I watched the water from my shower drain down to the ground beneath the house, nourishing the soil. The lighting in these houses is done beautifully, highlighting the worn wood and detail. The floors creak loudly and are gorgeous – I wish I knew what type of wood they were. And yes…the a/c above my head worked beautifully!
Reception at Bambu Indah.
John Hardy goblet, filled with a cold drink for me.
The dining area
Beautiful musical instruments on a gorgeous wood table in the dining area.
The menus and kitchen.
Biru House.
Detail of Biru House’s front door
Inside Biru House
Bathroom floorboards.
Detail of wall and ceiling inside Biru House.
Some other houses on the property.
Black Bamboo Minang House, used for yoga, and celebrations or private events.
Food garden…enak!
During my stay here at Bambu Indah, I toured John Hardy’s Jewelry Factory, a 20-minute car ride away. Originally from Canada, John settled in Bali in 1979 and began making jewelry with local artisans. His craft and creative genius showed in the technique and final product he produced here in Bali and received worldwide appreciation and attention. He and Cynthia met here in the 80’s and their collaboration catapulted their brand into an internationally recognized icon of jewelry design. For me personally, John Hardy was a name I learned in my early 20’s when I fell in love with the silver shapes and finishes of his rings and his chains. They were very different, much like the architecture of Green Village, and I like different. He became my first – and only except for Saundra Messinger who I LOVE too now – jewelry designer that I started to collect. So I knew I needed to see the birthplace of these creations. John sold his business to his partners in 2007, which I only found out once I arrived here in Bali, but the funny thing about that is that I haven’t purchased anything from John Hardy in years, and now I know why. Without realizing the newer collections were not designed by John Hardy, I knew I wasn’t “feeling” these new pieces. I am nothing if not loyal and true to my feelings, and somewhat intuitive, ay? So I did visit this factory, and tried hard to find something for myself that I could bring home, but you can’t force these things. The sales girls understood my dilemma in that John Hardy doesn’t design anymore. I did find lovely gifts for my kids and as I paid for them, I noticed a gorgeous silver pen in a wood holder. It was magnificent. I laughed as I told the girls that THAT is what I really wanted for myself, and she laughed back and told me it is actually for sale, and it is the last one, AND John Hardy designed it – it was left over from years ago. L-U-C-K-Y M-E!! :))
The John Hardy Showroom
Inside the showroom.
The desk…where I spotted my pen!
Just loved the way they protected the grass on this path…
As I contemplate what’s next for me in my life, I feel strongly it will have to be something to do with educating others, whether it be about sustainability in an art form or about education itself; helping to spread the opportunity for education, and guiding the next generation of boundary-pushing creative geniuses.
Inspired and Grateful!
The Best Spa in Bali
Imagine you are being driven through a marked stone and wood entrance and down a long, quiet road flanked with green grass hills, palm trees, flowers and banyan trees for as far as your eyes can see. In the distance you can see the thatched rooftops of 3 symmetrical buildings and as you come closer, there is a courtyard with a stone path that leads over water to a set of steps up to an open air platform, from which point you gaze through to the other side and see the two facing rows of bungalows with the stone path set into grass that run straight down to the horizon. You are drawn to follow that path, and as you walk, you smell the frangipani flowers and the green of the grass. You hear the birds and the frogs and the sound of water. You see the beautiful modern take on traditional Balinese architecture, using temple-like elements, thatched roofs, wood and stone. And as you walk, you are aware that your horizon line isn’t changing, yet the sound of water is getting louder. The path ends at a balcony. You can go left or right down the steps, or you can look straight over the balcony and down to the Ayung River below, where you will find heaven waiting for you at the spa.
This is the Bali of my dreams. So it does exist. I just had to find it.
The entrance to Maya Ubud Spa and Resort
Maya Ubud Spa, voted best Spa in Indonesia!
Maya Ubud
One of the pools
The long path down to the spa
Walking the path to the spa
Bungalows on either side of the path
So pretty
Close up of a door to a bungalow
The end of the path, looking down at the spa and beyond.
The River cafe and pool
A lite lunch before treatment.
The spa awaits…
The Spa at Maya Ubud
Waiting at the spa for my treatment.
Ice cold towel and iced mint tea
Walking down to the River for a reflexology massage
Down by the river…
Now this is more like it!
Ah yes…….
And the final result is….
Relaxed & Rejuvenated!
10 pushups, 10 situps, 10 squats, 10 lunges. Done.
Ubud, Ubud, Ubud!
asdf jkl; asdf jkl; I took Typing in my junior year at Livingston High School. It was a fun, easy elective. That’s how old I am. When did they stop teaching that? I know my kids didn’t take a typing class and can type quicker than I can, and I consider myself a pretty fast typer…uh..typist. I remember being tested for speed and accuracy and I did damn well. This has nothing to do with anything. asdf jkl; Those are the keys my fingers automatically sit on when resting on the keyboard. And when I don’t know how to begin, they rest there for a while.
Should I start with a story? Ok, fine.
Steamy, sauna-like air licked my face and neck as I sat at the second-floor bar looking out to the warung across the street. Down below, the candles danced on the tables and the lanterns gently lit the romance that ignited the few tables of men and women sitting across from each other. I could see the sexy outline of a woman, her body language suggesting amour with her date, as she softly threw her hair to one side and tipped her head to expose her long neck. He stretched his legs out under the table until he met hers, and she playfully slid her foot up his calf. The sweat dripped down my Bali Hai bottle rimming the glass on the wood bar. I took a deep swig and hoped it would stay chilled while I sat and watched. Jendela House. The sign glowed bright against the dark brick of the ancient building. Servers came and went from their tables, checking on customers and food, and the man and his date eventually stood, gathered each other, and walked off.
Directly across from where I was sitting, above the warung below, I could see a rooftop area that was dimly lit, but there hadn’t been any activity since I had sat down. I had been occupying my perch for quite a while, enjoying a late dinner of mie goreng and a couple of bottles of good Bali beer in an iced mug. There were a number of tables near me, one large party of Germans were out having a family dinner, and a few sets of couples seemed to be sharing their evening and food. I had eaten at this warung before, having been drawn to the music that I could hear down at the street level. It wasn’t loud, but it was most definitely familiar classic rock and it pulled me instantly up the steps and into this smallish, multi-leveled vibey open-air cafe. Along with the few tables of happy conversations, there were a few solo diners sitting at the bar that faced out to the street, as there were again tonight, me being one of them. The food was not only good, but the warung had a purpose – it is part of a foundation, Sari Bali, that gives free medical care to Bali citizens and it is raising money to build a hospital in Bali that will be able to accommodate 70,000 patients. More reason to spend my money here. So as I sat here and contemplated my life, I innocently watched the world around me do its thing. And then I saw something I shouldn’t have.
A woman had walked across the rooftop with a tray in her hand and opened a door. My eyes instantly focused on this because the roof had been quiet all night, so it was the first bit of activity I noticed. She seemed relaxed when she entered through that black door, carrying drinks on the tray. But when she came back out not a moment later, she was breathless and almost running. Then I saw a man emerge from the door, tackle her, and fall down on top of her. I couldn’t see what happened beneath the half wall that enclosed the rooftop, but I know I didn’t see her get up. I could see his black hair bob up and down and I watched as this blackened figure moved backwards toward the door he came from, as if he was dragging her body. The door opened, and then shut. There hadn’t been any sound during this whole 90 seconds except the thunder of my own heart.
I looked at Alex, the owner, and thought I should grab him and tell him what I saw. He was sitting down with the large German party describing the various deserts offered on tonight’s menu. Not wanting to interrupt or be an alarmist, I ran through my head what I would say. I felt an immediate sense of urgency to yell out, but something was stopping me. The language was a barrier, but it was more than that. It was the knowledge that this is a corrupt country, and that whatever had just gone down wasn’t my business and if I got involved I may be doing myself more harm. This is not the States – which is just as corrupt as anywhere else, but in a first-world politically correct way that allows us to convince ourselves that we can stomach it all the more. But my head wouldn’t settle for that. If I was that woman, I would hope someone would have the guts to help me! I know I often over-simplify things, but I truly believe each person makes a difference, so if one person stands up, maybe more will follow, and maybe…just maybe…corruption will somehow stop. Ok, none of this happened. I’m sorry if you got really wrapped up…I could always continue it, if you really want. Woahhhhhh…..don’t go freaking out on me now. You wanted a story, so I gave you one. Actually, it all happened up until the man attacked the woman. There was a woman on the roof, and she went in a door, but no man came out after her. I just thought it would be fun to try out my writing skills. Because I reaaaaally have to figure out what I’m going to do with my life!!!
If you’re done cursing me out, I’ll tell you some of my thoughts. I have gotten to know myself pretty well, spending all this time alone with me. For one, I definitely like nice things. A home, a garden, some land. I MUST earn money so that I can have a home, a garden, and some land. And a dog. I need a home because it is my sacred grounding place. It is where I am sheltered and safe. And it is also where I invite my loved ones in to share my nurturing and comforting gifts of love and friendship. It is where I welcome in those that I love and create some of the best memories. Secondly, I avoid goals. I don’t ever set goals. Please don’t confuse goals with deadlines. That’s in a box by itself. I am completely responsible and have been known to work ridiculous hours to deliver the best product on time. Goals are different. They are personal. I notice that I avoid thinking about them. I think I’ve figured out why. The obvious. What if I don’t meet them? What if? I will have failed myself, that’s what if. Alright, so let’s say I fail. I tend to say, what’s the point in setting them if I have no chutzpah to even try to achieve them? So the question really is, Why isn’t the reward great enough? Hands up,please…I need some answers. Because if I don’t set goals, I get nowhere!! Goals represent something I have to work for to achieve. We all know it’s been quite a while since I’ve “worked” at anything. And quite honestly, I kinda enjoy NOT working. But I’m 25% into my year of travel and bleeding cash, and a band-aid isn’t gonna stop the flow. So it’s time for me to get serious. Here’s my goal. I am giving myself until June 1st to CHOOSE SOMETHING TO WORK AT. That’s 3+ more months of exploring my options and developing a plan. Good, I’ve set a goal. Third…it’s time to stop fucking around with my weight and get serious about losing it. There. I’ve said it. Sometimes putting it out there is the hardest part. I need to hold myself accountable, so going public is one way of forcing that. Here’s my goal. Starting tomorrow – wait, fuck that, starting now – I’m gonna do 10 push ups, 10 sit-ups, 10 squats, and 10 lunges. For every day I complete my goal, I can have a glass of wine. Because I’ve been having the glass of wine anyway, so isn’t it better to counteract that? If I don’t complete it, no alcohol!!! Let’s see how that works, for starters anyway.
Ok, back to Ubud. It’s reeeallyyy growing on me!!! The longer I stay….the better it gets….
When my driver turned onto the main road in Ubud, my interest peaked as we whizzed by all the stores and restaurants and the people walking the streets. Just the pure energy was completely different and uplifting. I had my fill of the beach and was ready for some city life. Ubud isn’t a city, but it is known as the cultural and artistic heart of Bali. It’s considered a village, but it’s more like a hopping town. I arrived at The White Villas, my new home, and got myself plugged in. The owners, Tina & Christian, weren’t arriving until Thursday, but their Balinese staff were more than capable of taking great care of me and making me feel at home. They had a list of tours and activities that I might try, and we sat together and planned my week. I quite liked my new surroundings. I was a five-minute walk to the main road, but far enough away from the hustle & noise. I liked walking around the “hood”, past the roosters that wander about, past all the stray dogs, past the offerings, past the local Balinese neighbors going about their day-to-day. I sat on the back of the motorbike as the staff drove me to town when I didn’t feel like walking, and had some really nice talks about Balinese culture, Hindu religion, and learning the language. Now that I’ve spent some time in Southeast Asia, I am starting to differentiate between the different Asian cultures. For one thing, and I know I’m gonna get slammed for this comment, Americans are so culturally different from the Chinese in sooo many ways, and I find myself getting annoyed at *some* of the Chinese’s behaviors, or lack of awareness and respect for being in a country other than theirs. I hate – really hate – when people use an entire nationality as a generalization, so that is why I am saying “some”. But a lot of “some”, in this case. When they speak to each other, it is so friggin loud it’s like they’re yelling. Actually it sounds like they’re fighting, and if someone doesn’t crack a smile I’m not sure that they’re not. Turn down the volume! No one else talks that loud! And have you ever noticed that burping is like…as common as breathing?? I am flabbergasted at the older Chinese women that burp in public as loud as a car horn and from deep down in their bellies. It’s like a contest – the longer, the louder..the higher the score. It’s shocking to me! I’m sorry, but I’m not the only one who thinks it’s gross – the Balinese think it’s gross too! I’ve literally asked them!! So if the majority votes that it’s gross, shouldn’t the Chinese be the ones curtailing their cultural differences rather than the rest of us just accepting them? Listen, I am nothing but respectful, and I googled “Chinese burping in public” just to make sure I’m not crazy, and I now know that it is socially acceptable – to them – in China. But not to the rest of the friggin world, so when in China…burp away!! And I will try to hide my surprise. But when in Bali…..cover your mouth please!! And an “excuse me” would be nice for the ones that sneak out!!
My street, Jl. Sandat, leading to The White Villas
The White Villas
My home in Ubud
My villa
The gardens
The pool at the edge of the jungle
Ahhhh
Looking back up at the villas, there are 3.
The Balinese people are among the loveliest I’ve ever met. They are soft-spoken, happy, smiling, engaging, and honest!! Because they are Hindu and believe in karma, they do not steal and crime is very low. Actually, this isn’t true all over Bali, but in Ubud, it is very, very safe. Helmuts are left just sitting on motorbikes – nobody would ever steal them. When you bargain for prices or hand over money, there is no worrying that you are getting ripped off. They wouldn’t think of it. They are constantly doing things for good luck, for blessings, and because if they do good things, they truly believe good things will come to them. They believe if they are bad, they or their children will have to pay the price for it. They believe in community, in helping each other. They usually have 4 children, and their names are given based on their birth order, regardless of gender. Putu or Wayan is the first-born. Made (pronounced Mahday) or Kadek is the second born. Nyoman or Komang is the 3rd, and Ketut is the 4th. If they have more than 4 children, the cycle repeats itself. They are also given other names to differentiate themselves but they are usually called by these birth order names. I also learned that each Balinese village has 3 temples dedicated to Brahma; the creator, Vishnu; the preserver, and Siwa; the destroyer. The temples are used for assemblies, dances and performances, meetings, the preparation of offerings, and festivals. I think I spoke about the offerings in a prior post, but this is something that is such a huge ritual in Balinese culture, and what I had first viewed as “messy” because they end up being stepped on, destroyed and torn apart, has now become something of beauty, of being present, and of belief. The Balinese women create these 3×3″ palm leaf baskets in which a daily selection of beautifully julienned local produce and flower petals, usually frangipani, is presented, often 3 times per day, to appease gods and demons that represent the Hindu religion. These offerings are left everywhere – on the streets, at the doors, on the statues, tables, literally everywhere. They are swept up at some point, usually in the early morning, to make a fresh start for the new day’s offerings.
Gio, the manager at The White Villas, took me on a tour of Ubud and its outer villages so that I could see some of the cultural and artistic trades at work. We visited Mas village, where woodworkers carved buddhas, animals, and everything in-between learned from their ancestors. We visited the UC silver and gold factory and watched the jewelry makers hone their craft. We visited a batik factory and watched the patterns being painted on fabric with wax and dipped in natural dyes. We visited the Ubud market and saw an overload of these things being sold. We visited Monkey Forest where the monkeys will climb on you to get the treats they know you’ve purchased for them. And of course, we did lunch at the famous Ibu Oka, noted for their Babi Guling, roasted suckling pig. Enak! (Delicious, in Balinese).
Street of Ubud
Ubud
A woman at the market
Weaving on the loom at the Batik Factory, Ubud.
Artists at the Art Museum, Ubud.
Batik Factory, Ubud.
Silver Jewelry Making at UC Jewelry, Ubud
Woodcarving in Mas Village
Temple, Ubud
Monkey Forest
Aggressive little shits.
The next day, I had hired another driver to take me on another tour up to Besakih, the mother temple in Bali, and Mt. Agur volcano. I woke up feeling a bit queasy, but pushed on wanting to see the magic of Bali. It’s a 2-hour drive up to that area, so we traveled north through Ubud and out of the crowded streets where the road winds up the mountains and the villages seem more provincial. I don’t know if it was the elevation, the bumpy dirt roads, or breakfast, but I made my driver pull over so I could neatly vomit on the side of a rice paddy. And thus began the first of many bouts of puking and diarrhea that would highlight each stop we made. I puked at Besakih at the top of the temple steps. I puked at a villager’s crop field. I puked at Tegalalang in the bathroom of a dirty warung, and gladly arrived home at my villa to puke again surrounded by familiarity. Komang, the sweetest Balinese girl who is on staff at the villa, jumped on her motorbike, sped off to a pharmacy and returned with two wonder drugs – one for each end. That was my magic in Bali. Grateful.
Beautiful Kertagosa Temple, Ubud.
Kertagosa Temple
Under the Roof at the Kertagosa Temple
Close up of the painted ceiling of Kertagosa Temple
Besakih Temple
Besakih Temple
Celebration at Besakih Temple
Besakih Temple
Kintamani Batur Volcano. The black is the ash of the last explosion.
Tagalalang Rice Paddies, Ubud
Tagalalang Rice Paddies, Ubud.
The next two days were spent resting, as you can imagine. White rice and ginger tea for breakfast, lunch and dinner. By Friday I was feeling better and ready to head out again. I had signed up for a Balinese cooking class at Casa Luna, and it was fabulous. We learned about the different herbs, spices, vegetables and fruits that are indigenous to Bali and used in Balinese dishes. We learned to use a flat mortar & pestle to combine ingredients the Balinese way. One woman kept asking if she could substitute things and the answer was always “this is how we do it in Bali”. It was definitely not getting through to her that “the Balinese way” is what we’re here to learn. We made chicken satay, peanut sauce, nasi goreng (Balinese fried rice) vegetarian and with chicken, and a vegetable salad, and then sat down and feasted. Yum!! I walked the streets of Ubud, wandered in and out of shops, bought a pair of earrings from a local jewelry designer, and started to feel like me again. A new pair of earrings can do that. Iris, I know you understand this. On Saturday I did some more wandering with a goal of having lunch at Bebek Bengil, famous for their crispy duck. I wandered in just ahead of 3 young girls who graciously invited me to join them for lunch, and I have to say I was thrilled and aching for my daughter at the same time. But this was pretty close to being with her, as they were all around 23 yrs of age. Daphne from Taiwan, beautiful and smart, works for Uber in Taiwan. Alexia from Cali works for Groupon in Taiwan, and their friend from Pennsylvania (so sorry I’m forgetting her name!) was on hiatus searching for her next job. We really did have a nice chatty time and we hugged goodbye and wished each other safe travels.
Ready to cook at Casa Luna!
Some of our ingredients.
More ingredients
This is how the Balinese crush their nuts. 🙂
And we’re cooking!
Nasi Goreng in the works…
Grilling the chicken satay
The finished meal, ready to eat!
Lunch at Bebek Bengil with sweet traveling young friends who invited me to join them.
Shopping in Tagalalang, beautiful tribal jewelry
Lunch at a local Warung on the main street in Ubud.
This is a cremation – there is an actual body in there that will be burned.
Baskets at the market
Continuing my wandering, I checked out Yoga Barn, supposedly “the” place to go in Ubud and told the receptionist I was “just looking”. Took a schedule just to make it look like I was somewhat interested, knowing full well I wasn’t ready for “the” place just yet. I was, however, ready for a Balinese spa pedicure…and I had passed what looked like just “the” place on my way to Yoga Barn. So I entered this authentic Zen Spa, left my flip-flops at the door, and proceeded to follow the little guy up the steps to the pedicure area. Had a good laugh at myself, sitting in an uncomfortable wooden chair, my feet in a bowl, and the little guy using a dirty towel (God I hope it was just grayed) and an emery board and blow dryer to make my feet feel brand new. Ahhhh…and the view? A concrete wall and tin roofs. Still questioning what I’m doing wrong. Have a look.
Zen Spa…the furthest thing from it.
Saturday night I enjoyed a Kacek and fire dance performance at the local village temple. Over 100 men chant the songs that tell the story of the Balinese lovers caught in a jealous triangle. Almost Romeo & Juliette-like. The costumes and makeup are fantastic. I think I smiled for an hour and a half straight through to the end of the show – the finale being a fire walker. Damn, his feet must be numb. Dirty goes without saying.
The start of the dance, lighting the fire
The men make a circle around the fire and chant and dance.
The women in full costume, dancing the story..
Kacek dance
Another character
My camera sucked..
The prince?
I’m lost…but entertained…
The fire walker
Crazy dude.
Sunday was the best day!! I had rescheduled a tour of Jatiluwih Rice Fields from the earlier in the week when I was too sick to go, and although I had seen some rice paddies, there ain’t nothing like this!! Tiered, green, waves carved into the mountain sides, cascading down and around making wavy geometric turns. Art Landscape! Rice takes 3 months to grow, so it is harvested 4 times per year – oh you can do the math? Cool. The paddies are flooded in the earlier stages until the green stalks finally sprout and turns a wheat color. The villagers here bathe in the stream, and I was amused by this one adorable little Balinese girl proudly washing her tummy with a bar of soap. When I asked to take her picture, she was indifferent but didn’t want to look at the camera.
Jatiluwih
Jatiluwih
Jatiluwih
Jatiluwih
Can’t get enough…
Jatiluwih
The mountains that lead down to Jatilwih
Mountains behind Jatiluwih
Bathing in the river.
Adorable.
Sweet.
After the rice paddies, we made our way to Ulun Danu Temple on Lake Beratan. Just gorgeous. The grounds were stunning, park-like, and the temple was a picturesque monument jutting out into the lake.
At Ulan Danu Temple
Ulan Danu, floating on Beratan Lake.
Ulan Danu at Beratan Lake
And on the way back home, I scored gold in…baskets. I sort of have an obsession with baskets here, and I found this local couple who weave them by hand and they are sooo beautiful that I couldn’t decide which one I wanted to buy…so…I know, I better find a home to put them all in. And poor Laurie gets to store them for me until that happens.
10 push ups, 10 situps, 10 lunges, 10 squats. Done.
B is for Bali. And Bintang…
Let’s play word association. I say “Aspen”, you say….skiing, mountains, celebrities. I say “Italy”, you say….food, romance, art. I say “Bali”, you say…..well? Before arriving, I would have said beaches, beauty, bliss. Now that I’ve been here a week, I can often be found with that quizzical look on my face that says, “This is Bali?”. Is there something wrong with me? Can’t I see the tropical paradise that is Bali through the traffic, piles of rubble, garbage, poverty and corruption? I know that I easily see beauty in many forms, and that I am quicker to point out the positive side of most anything before seeing the negatives. But so far….the images I had in my mind are not matching the reality here. I will have 4-7 weeks to change that.
I arrived in Denpassar’s Ngurah Rai International Airport and stood in a line for 2 hours to get through customs. This gave me the opportunity to get friendly with my line neighbors. There was a bunch of Australian college girls on a weekend trip that were poking fun of the man who conspicuously kept moving up a few people at a time and cutting the line, and were complaining endlessly about the wait. They were loud, having fun, and laughing. An older gentleman was behind them and thought to offer his wisdom and advice. He said, “Relax. You’re in Bali. Go with it. Be grateful to be here. Respect Bali and it’s people. Be kind. That is how you will most enjoy Bali.” I thought that was sound advice, and although the length of wait time was a bit irritating, I was truly feeling relaxed, happy to be here, and open to the slow pace of Bali’s culture.
Bali is 70 miles long and 95 miles wide, and is 8 degrees south of the equator. It has 2 seasons – Rainy and Summer. It is ALWAYS hot and humid, with temps mostly in the mid-80’s, but there is usually a nice breeze coming off the water if you are waterside. Over 4 million people live here in Bali, and over 80% are Hindu, with the rest being a combo of Muslim or Christian. It is a huge tourist magnet, especially for Australians, and it is CHEAP. That’s why so many expats settle here – they can live the life they dream of. It is also filled with motor scooters, which is the preferred way of travel for most of the people here, as cars are expensive. My jaw hit the ground when I spotted families of 3 or 4 casually siting sideways on a speeding death bike…I mean motor scooter, weaving through traffic. The scooters and cars are constantly beeping at each other, either to say..”hey, I’m behind you but about to pass you.” or “hey, you beeped at me I’m beeping back”. I don’t know what effectiveness the beeping has, I just know it’s constant. I also noticed, as I drove along the streets, that the landscape is filled with…construction materials. Stone, rubble, wood piles, rubble, and some rubble. Actually, it is rare to see a so-called “landscape” during my travels from Nusa Dua to Gianyan and then Sanur. There is also a tropical lushness everywhere that happens to be really beautiful.
I started off at the Novotel in Nusa Dua, having read that this prime real estate is the upscale resort area in Bali with beautiful beaches. I had booked 2 nights here ($80/night, 4-star hotel including breakfast and a massage) and planned to figure out my travels around this island from there. The hotel was fine, it’s just that I’m not a resort person. Resorts are the hotel designer’s idea of vacationing, and they can be exquisite, but my heart and mind always want to travel outside of my hotel and see the real area that I’m in. So after getting a good night’s sleep, I walked out the front door of the hotel ready to explore. Two steps to the left, and I quickly turned around and headed back in to the information desk.
“I’d like to walk and see Nusa Dua. Where should I go?”
“You want to go shopping?”
“Well…I want to walk and see whatever Nusa Dua has to offer”
“Shopping? You want to go to Bali Collection?”
“Ok…I guess so….which way?”
“The bus comes every hour”
“But I want to walk…is it far?”
“You want to…walk? Walk? Umm…the bus is free.”
“Yes, that’s ok, but I’d rather get out and walk”
“Ok Miss,” she said, clearly judging my American ignorance, ” It’s just to the left, about 3km.”
I could do that. That’s a good walk. Off I went, down the broken sidewalks dotted with huge gaping holes that often caused me to carefully step out into the whizzing motor scooter/car raceway on the street. I passed many tiny shack-style shops, all selling touristy sarongs and items. I passed tens of massage places, their employees sitting on the front steps calling out to me, “Miss, you whan massage?” I passed a few hotel entrances, all underwhelming. After walking about 3 km, I was nowhere. I stopped at a hotel guard gate an asked where Bali Collection was. “You want me to get you a taxi?” No, I want to walk…how far is it? “About 5km down the road”…sigh…clearly I could not rely on anyone’s answers as far as distance. So I flagged down a taxi, hopped in, and took off for Bali Collection. And that’s it. Well yeah, because once I got there, I asked the driver to turn around and take me back to the Novotel.
Dinner that night was as cheesy as it gets. Outside at the hotel’s beach restaurant, I was shown to the buffet whose offerings included satay, rice, and nonenticing other stuff. I got to hear the music of 4 Balinese men with 2 guitars and a bongo drum singing Maroon 5. Adam Levine is lucky to have missed this. I wished I was as lucky.
I had found my next destination on airbnb, and was moving on, gratefully. Villa Puri Purnama is a lovely beachside villa on the Gianyar coast, north of Sanur. I knew I might be isolating myself staying here, and the owner, Paula, was honest with me about that. But she offered me a great deal for a night to see if I liked it. $59 for a Master Suite including breakfast. The property has a gorgeous pool and grounds and literally sits on the black volcanic sand beach It really is beautiful. It is well maintained and the staff are all Balinese and lovely, smiling, hard-working and gentle people. Needless to say, one night turned into 6. Lunch and Dinner was ordered off a menu each day and I was charged less than $5/lunch and $6/dinner. I don’t think I ever finished the food on my plate – huge portions. I also had a mani/pedi and one-hour full body massage at the villa – total price $27. I said $27. I know I’m stuck on calling out the prices here but just making a point that spending the money I have in the past on these very necessary treatments feels so wasteful now. I know, it’s all relative. Just makes me think.
Entrance (from the inside) of Villa Puri Purnama
Beautiful Villa Puri Purnama.
Gorgeous landscaped property.
Stunning pool with the beach just beyond…
My view most days…
Unless I wandered inside…
Black volcanic ash beach. Very cool to look at, and VERY hot to walk on in the sun.
Just a couple of steps away…
My room with french doors…huge!
Not too shabby…
The night I arrived was a celebration for a Chinese family that had booked the Villa for a Balinese Blessing Ceremony, which is like a vow renewal ceremony. I watched from the balcony as the bride and groom and their 3 kids and parents, all dressed in Balinese traditional costumes, were blessed by a Hindu Priest and given offerings from the village and renewed their vows. It was such a treat! We all then enjoyed a special dinner and Balinese specialty of Babi Guling, roast suckling pig.
So I can’t say I did much here for my 6 days other than turn my body from one side to the other to toast evenly. And dip into the 86 degree pool every hour to try to cool down a bit. Paula and her husband had left for a 5-day trip to Java, so I was on my own except for the Chinese family. I did hire a driver to take me to see Tanah Lot – an ancient Balinese Temple built on a cliff over the ocean on the southeast coast of Bali. It was swarming with tourists and tourist shops that you have to walk through in order to get to the temple. Once I reached it, I was surrounded immediately by heaps of Muslim students on a field trip with surveys that they had to complete for school. I agreed to take allow them to ask me the questions – it was a way for them to practice their English. They were really adorable. Honestly there were hundreds of these students so you can imagine how many asked me to be interviewed and the amount I waved off until I finally agreed. So getting an affirmative response from me was like landing the big fish! They all of a sudden got nervous and pulled in their friends to do the talking.
Very adorable group of students interviewed me for their school assignment.
So after that, I proceeded to the temple where there is a touristy “Holy Water” area where the Hindu priests will sprinkle you with the water that is dripping down through the cracks in the temple and press sticky rice onto your forehead as if it’s Ash Wednesday. I accepted the ritual only to have water and rice run down my face into my eyes and cause my glasses to fall off. As I start to walk away wiping my eyes and catching my falling sunglasses, all the priests at once said “Donation!” Oh! Yes, of course! Why else would I get holy water and sticky rice pasted on me if not to give money!! Clink, clink. Overall, underwhelming.
Entrance to Tanah Lot
Here it is…couldn’t go up and inside..didn’t know that.
Holy water shrine…
Did I say I wasn’t a resort person? Well…obviously I can be swayed…just has to be the right resort!! After leaving Villa Puri Purnama I booked 2 nights at the totally cool Komune Beach Resort on the famous Keramas beach, a surfer’s paradise. It was 5 minutes from the Villa, but it could easily have been in Miami. The design of this resort is a totally laid back, cool vibe on a gorgeous property, lush with winding paths, pool beds to lounge on all day, an awesome bar/restaurant for all meals, snacks or drinks, and even an outdoor screening area where they show movies at night. By day I was happy lounging at the pool, and by night I was equally happy to sit at the bar facing the ocean and watch some night surfing – there is a huge floodlight that lights up the ocean. 
The bridge from the hotel to the beach club
From the bridge, the pool can be seen to the left in the distance
The restaurant and screening area are on the right.
Pool beds…perfect snooze spot.
Sun going down
The bridge to the beach club/restaurant
Same bridge but night view
Did I mention the fire pit?
Watching night surfing from the bar
Perfect perch.
The path back to my room
Just before I left this area, I was invited to join Paula and a big group of friends at a birthday celebration in Sanur, held at Casablanca. It was my first night out with people after being in Bali for a week, and I finally felt like I was doing something the locals do at a local place. Very fun night, great band – would love to see them again!
This is Marianna doing some crazy burning drink for her birthday.
And cake of course!
I should definitely have a headache in the morning…
Next stop…Ubud!!
Safari Under The Sea
It’s unimaginable to think of making the long trek to Australia and not experiencing The Great Barrier Reef. It was definitely on my hit list, but when I researched it, I wasn’t loving the towns that border it – they all seemed a bit cheesy, young, and touristy. So I decided the best way to do this would be to avoid the towns and sail around the Whitsunday Islands on a boat for a few days. Yesss! Already, my pulse was racing as I searched for the best boating options. There are many, from 26-person catamarans to 60-person cruises to high-speed boats. Most of them allowed snorkeling, but few of them provided for scuba diving. I had planned to get my Open Water Diver certification in Byron Bay, so diving was a requirement on any boat I picked, and I settled on a 3-day, 2-night cruise aboard the Kiana, a 60-ft schooner that sails the Whitsunday Islands with 14 passengers and 3 crew.
I decided to arrive 3 days prior to the boat trip and stay in a gorgeous place in Shute Harbour where I would lie on the beautiful beaches and dip myself into the gentle surf of the aquamarine-blue waters. That was the plan. I mean, I could see the beaches were phenomenal, and I was basically drooling at the thought of the cool, delicious water I would bask in. Y’all saw the pictures, right? I saw it with my own eyes, so I would’ve bet my first-born that it was as I assumed (sorry Michael – I’m quite sure I would win you back somehow). When it looks too good to be true…it usually is. Unbeknownst to me, this part of Australia is off limits for beaching and bathing during the summer months because the sea is filled with boxed jellyfish, aka stingers, aka fucked-up little devils that ruin your plans for swimming in the Great Barrier Reef without a wetsuit and a hoodie!! Ummm…yeah, gorgeous water that will never touch your skin unless you’re willing to risk your life – the stingers are deadly. I was speechless when I found this out. No one advertises this fact. Who would come here?! Obviously, this is the best kept secret of The Great Barrier Reef (GBR, ok?). Those 3 days in Shute Harbor couldn’t end quick enough so I could get on that boat, be surrounded by people, and at least be ON the water, knowing I would eventually be IN it wearing a 1 mil nylon stocking over my head and entire body with a little cutout for my eyes, nose and mouth. The only saving grace was that ALL of us looked as ridiculous as the next, and you couldn’t tell anyone apart. Any humility was lost within the first 5 minutes of donning the required alien-suit. I could understand the wetsuit, especially to keep your body warm for extended periods in the water, but the hoodie was just …ugh. It’s kinda like having to ride a bike with a helmet on. Half the fun of riding is to feel the wind through your hair, ya know? But whatever…no one, including me, was risking their life. Actually, risking your life wasn’t an option on the Kiana. They wouldn’t allow you in the water without being properly suited up.
Alien wetsuits required for entry into the water – sorry, no pic of me.
The Kiana is an excellent adventure boat to tour the GBR on. Brent the skipper, Jeff the cook, and Cindy the dive instructor are all completely professional, well-trained, and have the perfect character to add to the entertainment factor on board. The sleeping accommodations are like being back in camp, although even tighter, so you get to know people pretty quickly in this intimate environment. I slept with 5 other people in the front berth – I had the left top single bunk with a double bed just below me and the same on the right side, about 5 feet away. The back berth had the same arrangement, and there was one singe berth in the middle of the boat that held 2 people while the other 3 were in the main cabin. Surprisingly, there was no snoring, no farting, no sex (that would have been more awkward than the prior “no”s), and everyone was very well-behaved and respectful. There were 2 full baths on the boat, and each person was allowed one 2-minute shower per day. Completely doable. As were the three full days of snorkeling, diving, sunning, sleeping, reading, eating, and of course drinking, but only after dives or snorkels were completed for the day.
Boarding The Kiana
Jeff the cook giving us a briefing.
Brent the skipper giving us more briefings.
Just left the harbor and making our way out to sea.
The cast of characters aboard the Kiana ranged from 20’s to 50’s, couples to singles to sisters to friends, and diverse nationalities. We were 3 Americans (me from NY and 2 sisters from LA), a couple from Melbourne, 2 friends from Germany, a couple from Denmark, a guy from Austria, 2 guys from the UK, and a couple from Beijing, China. Everyone in the world speaks English, and being amongst these people from all over the world made me feel pretty embarrassed that I only speak one language while they speak at least 2, usually more, fluently. We are so egocentric in this country and the rest of the world laughs at it. Even though they admittedly look to us for everything – from music to movies to products to celebrities to fashion….but let’s not discuss education or healthcare. We just suck in those areas. I truly hope someone has the gumption to stand up and be heard and make a difference in these areas. I wish I knew the answers – its complicated, but it’s soooo apparent we need a complete overhaul of these failing systems. Just saying.
Su, from Bejing. She gets the Highest Achievement award, because she discovered her love of scuba diving on this trip and it was wonderful to watch her explode with excitement!
Penny & Bonnie, sisters from LA. Penny had 2 underwater cameras and shared them with me. Thanks Penny!
Sandra from Denmark, tall blonde, beautiful, and smart too!!
This is Martin, from Germany. His patience is greatly appreciated for allowing me to step on him to get down from my bunk at 5am due to nature calling.
The first day we spent most of the morning being briefed about the boat, safety issues, what was expected of us and what we could expect on our 3-day sail. We set off for Whitehaven Beach, the most beautiful beach in the world (ok, try challenging me once you’ve seen the pics). The sand is made of quartz which gives it its bright white color, and the sea is so turquoise and shallow in parts that it’s constantly changing with the tides. It’s dreamy and surreal. It’s also very salty – not good for burned lips, but good for floating.
Kiana Route Map
Kiana bouyed at Whitsunday Island where we took the dingy to the land and hiked over the hill to WhiteHaven Beach.
Whitsunday Island – not the white beach side, silly.
Woo Hoooo!!
1st glimpse of Whitehaven Beach
Makes me smile.
Cindy, our Dive Master, always the goofball.
Whitehaven Beach
Whitehaven Beach
Just the water….
No words….
My loves…
Me & Stefan, from Austria, sans hoodies.
We spent 3 hours on Whitehaven beach just sitting in the water and resting on the beach. Then we made our way back to the boat and sailed on to Hook Island, where we had dinner and spent the night rocking gently in a protected cove. I slept like a baby. Seriously. I had a little open window next to my top bunk which gifted me with quiet, soothing breezes throughout the night, and access to the first morning light. We were woken up at 6am for brekky and had to get suited up for diving at 7:00.
Yeah, about the diving. Are we really back to this? I didn’t do it. I just wasn’t feeling like stressing out over something that’s NOT necessary. And as it turns out, the snorkeling was FUCKING FANTASTIC!!! Under the sea (dada da da da da da da)…The Little Mermaid song is still in my brain…but seriously, it was Disney under water. The colors were exaggerated by the sunlight streaming through the water. The fish were brilliant and surreal and so calm and unbothered by us floating on top of them. The coral was soo interesting – sooo many different kinds creating walls of reef that thousands of different creatures call home. The slower you go, the more you see. Parrot fish, white-tipped sharks, huge sea turtles swimming slowly through the water…clown fish – aka Nemo – I can’t even remember the names of most of them. There were so many schools of small and large species making their way somewhere, I don’t know where, but following their leaders through the sea, sometimes being chased by bigger fish. There was one fish in particular that our crew knows personally from going to this same area of the reef, and they’ve named him Albert. He’s a large, colorful fish that stays by the boat and actually comes up to our dive instructor when she’s sitting on the ladder and gives her his side to pet. I’m totally not kidding. This fish kept coming up to the top, turning on its side, and Cindy would stroke him as he went back down. Crazy!! I tried to get pics but couldn’t get the timing right. I had no idea fish had a memory or feelings such that they would interact with humans. Guess I’m forced to look at fish differently now. A little hard to think about this when it’s on my plate….depends how hungry I am.
Coral
Schools of fish
Gorgeous colors..
Under the sea….
I spotted him!! So elegant swimming through the sea.
Another one on the reef
How cool!
Too cool for school….he’s on his own.
Leopard fish?
I spy…..SHARK!!!
Bahh dummm…bah dumm…ba….dum
Amazing.
I’d like to be….under the sea…
The reef wall is like scaling mountains but being weightless.
Pretty fish
Just about 3 feet above the coral
Nemo!
This is Albert! He’s so cool and colorful!
Side shot of Albert
Beauty!
Cindy calling to Albert – see him just under the water coming up?
We spent the night out at Bait Reef under the most beautiful skies amidst billions of stars. This whole trip was such a treat. Good for the soul. I felt such tranquility and a peaceful happiness that I had been looking for…the sea is a magical place…
The air took on a hazy watercolor feeling and the sea and sky seemed to melt into each other. I swear these pics are all unaltered.
Breathtaking beauty everywhere.
Hazy, late afternoon at Bait Reef
Bait Reef.
The sky and the sea are just spectacular.
Sun going down….
And down…
…
Can’t stop clicking…
Can it possibly get better?
Breathe…..
Goodnight, moon.
Roise up! Toim for Brekky!! We set sail for our 6 hour trip back to earth.
Sailing back to Airlie Beach
Hayman Island, where we stopped for lunch on the 3rd day.
Oiy will definitlee miss the Auzzies hea in Ostrahliuh. It’s bean nealy foive weeks and oive lahved it hea. Cont think of a betta plice to foind betta beeches to meet moi mites (mates) in the bluddy heat of summah. Oiy will miss the wehds (words) these blokes use, loike dohdgy (dodgy) to descroibe a plice that isn’t quite roite, aw heaps which means lawts. Oiy will miss moy brekky awf eggs, avocado and rawcket. I will miss saying Cheeahs (cheers) which means thahnks as well as good dahy. And oi promise to be bahck to this luvely lahnd. Isn’t it qwait fahntahstic that you have been speaking this paragraph out loud and troying out yaw Auzzie aksent??? Gotcha. :))
The Whitsundays. Paradise, maybe, or not.
Empty. That’s what I feel. Un….whole. Not…..peaceful. Bored? Yeah, maybe. Been learning a lot about me on this journey, not necessarily things that I didn’t know but confirmations of things I suspected or things that seem to be getting clearer. Recently a new friend turned me on to an Aussie band – Boy & Bear – and I’ve been listening to them on iTunes radio and all these other alternative bands that I don’t know – and it’s just great music. Music is definitely what saves me. Don’t choke on your food – yes, I need saving. I know I’m in paradise, but what exactly is paradise? Is it a geographical destination? Or is it an emotional place that you find? Yes, and yes. So, yes, I’m in geographical paradise. But honestly, I’m not feeling that “holy shit, I wanna die here” feeling. And because I’m such an aware person, I know it’s because I’m alone. I’m really fine being alone most of the time. I actually really enjoy being alone a lot of the time. Prefer it, actually. But there’s been a constant undercurrent throughout my whole single life…that I don’t believe I am meant to be on my own and I want, so badly, to find that person to share life with. An old friend of mine that I’ve known since high school recently said to me “I wish I had your life”, and I responded, “Really? Because I wish I had yours.” He couldn’t imagine why I would trade places with him. Looks like I’ve got it all, right? I’m traveling the world, to all these amazing destinations, seeing things I’ve never seen and always wanted to. And yes, that is Amazing with a capital A. But you know what he has that I don’t? Love. A partner. Someone to share life with. The good and bad. Someone to sleep with at night. To listen to them breathe. To wake up with and smile – or not, as often is the case. But when I got divorced, I knew I was not meant to be single. I love to love. I want to share. I am happy as a couple. I want to be a part of something bigger than myself. I miss, terribly, having someone to love, and as I write this, I am looking out at the most beautiful scenery I could imagine being in and I know, as Jennie always says, “Wherever you go, there you are”. Those words have haunted me since before I took this trip. Because it’s still me, just in this new exotic place. And then what? Yes, OF COURSE I appreciate it, make the most of it, learn, enjoy, yada yada yada…but when I’m not feeling that peace then I know I need to do some digging. When the Beatles sung “Love is all you need”, they seemed to hit the hammer on the head. Alternatively, I have said and have truly believed “love is not enough”. I said it to my ex-husband when our marriage was nearing it’s end and I realized love wasn’t going to solve our problems. I said it to my ex-boyfriend who loved me like no other, but had a serious alcohol addiction among other things. So what is it. What is it that I need and want? I am well aware no one is perfect, and I am at the top of that list. And I am also aware that I will most likely NOT get what I want, but still there is the wish list and I would love the opportunity to meet someone who made my heart skip a beat and made me consider which things I can live with. I want, simply, someone to love, to laugh with , someone strong enough to lean on and to trust. I want someone to love me back, who thinks I’m the shit, who is honest and loyal, who is intelligent, has integrity, and who will grow with me and be my partner through this jungle called life. I’m not writing my dating profile here, I’m just saying, why is it so fucking hard to find this person??? I am here in “paradise” and it feels like a waste of money to have paid for this view if I can’t share it with someone. OK, I know I’m putting this out there and sharing it all with all of you – and thank god for you!! Because what would I do if I had no one to share my thoughts with??? Just the fact that you’re interested in reading this is enough for me, for now, and don’t feel compelled to “solve” or “fix” my mood. It’s important to feel. So that’s what I’m doing. Listening to “A song for you” by Boy & Bear – making me sad. I leave tomorrow morning for a 3 day, 2 night sail around the Whitsundays – the most gorgeous beaches I have ever seen in my life, and I don’t want to feel empty. There will be 14 people on this schooner and I am assured to be happier just to be around people. Will “he” be there? I’m always hopeful but know better than to put too much of a wager on it. I think I’m gonna skip New Zealand, because the stress of planning another 8-day adventure alone isn’t feeling right to me. Instead I’m gonna head straight for Bali and get settled, like I did in Sydney, and meet people – locals, or travelers, but at least get grounded. I am always happier when I’m grounded. I’m planning on staying there for 7 weeks and then heading to Italy mid-March. Thanks for helping me straighten that out, at least. Direction is important! And thanks for letting me drone on. I know you didn’t actually have much to do with “letting” me, but if you’re still reading this, you should pat yourself on the back for being a good friend and just listening. Sometimes that’s what good friends do, and it’s worth everything. Smiling again, as I take another sip of wine and watch the darkness throw it’s cape over paradise.
View from my dipping pool toward Shute Harbour
The view from inside
Airlie Beach
Airlie Beach
The Lagoon at Airlie Beach
Sun getting lower
Paradise?
Scuba Diving in Byron Bay
One of the things people often ask me about my ’round the world air travel is did I plan and buy all of my air travel tickets prior to my trip? Or am I booking one way tickets as I go? The answer is a combination of some pre-planning and purchasing in the beginning stages for places I knew I wanted to go, some future planning for arriving in a certain place at a certain time, and lots of unplanned time to figure it out as I go. I have never been to most of the places that I am traveling to, so I can’t possibly know how I will feel about that place until I’m there. I do have to plan where I’ll stay when I arrive, and most of the time I’ve done enough research and I actually have been incredibly pleased with where I’ve chosen to stay. Australia is so big that I decided to only book a one way ticket to Sydney, and book my accommodation for 3 weeks. I would give myself 6 weeks to tour the country, which left me 3 “free” weeks to figure out. I knew I wanted to go to Melbourne and the Great Barrier Reef, but I didn’t need to do it in any order, and I figured I would talk to people I met and hear their suggestions and maybe find some travel buddies. If you talk to enough people, you hear a common thread. “Go to Byron Bay! It’s beautiful! You’ll love it! It’s a hippy/chic town full of surfers, divers, restaurants, and gorgeous beaches.” I heard this many times, and then someone said, “If you’re planning to go scuba diving up at The Reef, why not stop in Byron Bay first and get scuba certified there, and THEN go up to The Reef.” Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner! That made total sense to me. And that’s how I found myself in this glorious piece of paradise on the eastern-most point of Australia.
Byron Bay is a jewel. It used to be a sleepy, little beach town with a hippy country feel. The land has a great “roll” to it – it’s not flat like many beach areas tend to be. And there are no high-rise hotels at the beach or anywhere in Byron Bay for that matter – thank god someone had enough sense when they set the zoning laws here, because they really have kept the beauty of the land and the natural coastline in tact. It’s got a lot of young people and I kept thinking how much my kids would fall in love with this place – so many people to meet and hang with, so much to do, from surfing, snorkeling, diving, beaching it, to skateboarding, music in different places in town – it’s just a great walking town to explore. But there are also people my age here, many from different Australian cities who are visiting, and then many locals who love this place and have adopted a lifestyle that allows them to stay. They may not make much money, but they can surf or dive everyday or be outside and that’s good enough! Everyone is tattooed here, I think it’s a requirement if you want permanent residence. And everyone smiles and is happy. The bay beach is the beach that everyone goes to – it has great waves and is the most enormous beach I think I’ve ever seen! It never ends! And it has that great hard-packed sand that you can walk or run on and never sink. My mother would love it. I have to say, I definitely get my love of the beach from my mom. Thanks mom, for all those drives down to the Jersey shore when I was a kid. And then to Fire Island, and then the Hampton’s. If I end up here, you can only blame yourself. 🙂 The ocean beach is just on the other side of the arm that divides the two, and it is just as breathtaking.
Byron Bay
Byron Bay
Byron Bay OCEAN beach
Look at the little dots – those are people – that’s how HUGE the ocean beach is!!
Before I arrived, I enrolled in the Open Water Diving Course at the Byron Bay Dive Centre, and I booked a room in a private B&B called Byron Bathers after finding it through stayz.com, another site similar to airbnb.com, but it includes hotels, motels, and more commercial properties as well. I couldn’t have done better on location, because after booking it, I asked the owner if they knew of the Dive Centre and its location, and they laughed as they said it’s 2 doors down. I had to be at my classes at 7am every morning – fantastic!! I also quickly realized, upon my arrival, that everything I wanted and needed was within 300 meters. The beach, the town, and my classes. And to top it all off, the house and it’s owners couldn’t be more lovely! I know you hear me say that a lot, but I truly mean it! Paul and Sam (Sandra, but somehow she is called Sam) built this 2-level house about 15 years ago with their entire residence upstairs and 2 full in-suite rooms with a shared kitchen on the lower level. Each room has its own private outdoor patio as well as a large, beautifully furnished common outdoor area with plush comfy seating and an in-ground pool. Even though the house is in town, it is on a quiet little lane so it doesn’t get any foot traffic or town noise. The room itself is the perfect mix of modern beachy, with white-painted horizontal paneling on all the walls, high ceilings, natural maple floors, a really comfortable bed and sitting area – Sam and Paul have thought of everything to make you extremely comfortable, from fabulous towels in your own luxury modern bathroom down to homemade muffins and fresh fruit waiting for you in the kitchen every morning. Paul took me for a ride one afternoon up to the lighthouse which is part of the Byron Bay Preserve area and pointed me to a path which winds around down to the beach. Heaven!!
The Lighthouse at Byron Bay, the easternmost point of Australia
The path from the Lighthouse
Walking down to the beach below
Ocean surf in Byron
The path down to the beach – do you see the color of that water???
Following the path down to the beach
That’s the BAY and those dots are surfers – look close!
Surfers on the Bay beach
So about that diving course…I really tried, I did! And I’m still trying!!! But it just didn’t go as easy for me as I thought it would. My instructor, Gaye, was absolutely the best. She is completely competent, smart, well seasoned, explains everything perfectly, and has a real calmness about her and I guess a confidence too that made me feel totally safe. We spent the entire first day in the pool – learning about the equipment, learning how to put it together, and then learning how to dive and all the skills needed for that. I had absolutely no problems at all that entire day. I should also mention that there was a 6-hour online theory course that I had to complete prior to day one, and we then had to take a final exam in the classroom before the pool course. Cake.
So I woke up at 6am Wed morning and got ready for my first ocean dive. I could tell I was a little nervous, but that’s normal – I’ve never done this before. I managed to get a small banana down as I walked over to the centre, and met up with my classmates – Indie, my dive partner, an adorable 14- year old, and then there’s Ben & Josh – no they’re not a couple but they may as well be. They are best mates from Essex, England, and they are hysterical, like a comedy team. Everyday with them was like watching the Ben & Josh show. When one starts singing a tune, the other joins in and they don’t even know they’re doing it. They finish each other’s sentences, comfortably rub sunscreen on each other’s bodies, they are well aware of how their friendship looks to others, and are happy to play the roles and go with it. But the truth is, these two would never be mistaken as gay, they’re just refreshingly comfortable in their own skin. They’re both very good-looking and masculine; hell, Josh shared with the group within the first 5 minutes of class that he had gotten lucky the prior night – Ben interjected that thankfully he slept through it in his bed 3 feet from Josh’s. But anyway, I have no clue why I’m spending so much time on them other than the fact that I laughed a lot everyday and I love to laugh.
Ben (Big Red), Indie, Me, Gaye, & Josh. You’re welcome BR 🙂
So back to that dive…ok…so the morning was rainy and the seas were angry that day (sorry, joke) – actually the swells were quite high, and we took the boat (light rigid inflatable, thanks Gaye!) out to Julian Rocks where we anchored. As soon as the boat stopped, a huge wave of nausea overcame me. I thought it was probably nerves and I just distracted myself and tried to get my fins and my mask on and then the rest of the equipment. One by one, the divers fell back into the water. I went last. I was not comfortable and Gaye could tell instantly. I hadn’t even gone under the water yet but I was already freaking. My mask kept filling up with water, and I kept trying to clear it above water but the swells and the current were making it incredibly hard. She was helping me, and trying to calm me. I had the regulator in my mouth so I could breathe, but the truth is it was HARD to breathe! So I was thinking to myself, if I’m having this much trouble breathing OUT of the water, how the fuck am I going to breathe under water? ( I didn’t know it gets easier under water.) Gaye got my mask working correctly and slowly took me down the rope line, reminding me to equalize my ears as we went. We were only going to 12 meters, but it felt like miles! And of course, I was over thinking everything. My breathing was not normal and consistent like I knew it had to be. And my mask was making me crazy and scared because it was hard to keep clearing it, and I just wanted to pull the register out of my mouth and breathe air!! At that point, I REALLY freaked, and I signaled to Gaye that I had to go up. She grabbed both my hands and told me to calm down. She said she would take me up, but she first had to tell the other 3 to sit down on the sandy bottom and wait for her. In those 3 seconds, because she was so firm with me, I started to calm down and I thought to myself – maybe I should stay….can I do this? Nahhhhhh – go up!! So I went up. And I was exhausted and had to lie on my back and kick my way back to the boat and wait for the rest of them to finish their dive. The adrenaline and the whole panic situation mixed with the swell of the sea made me sick – literally. I puked up some neon green bile as soon as I got in the boat. Now THAT’s a sexy visual, wouldn’t you say? We got back to the beach, and took the 5 minute ride back to the dive centre, and I knew I couldn’t do the second dive that day. I felt like shit and I was exhausted. So I opted out, and didn’t beat myself up about it. I rested for a while, and then took myself to the beach. Ahhhh….finally started to relax and feel better. Such peace here.
Bliss
Too big to be crowded!
I told Gaye I would try again the next day. Up again at 6am, feeling better than the prior day, I walked myself over to the centre as I ate my banana. I actually thought I wasn’t going to go, having made that decision when I woke up. But Gaye gave me a pep talk and I found myself getting my equipment ready to put on the boat. Oh, can we talk for a second about putting on a wetsuit? Oh my fucking god. If I ever thought Spanx was hard to pull on with all the jumping I have to do, it’s a breeze compared to this. Seriously. And then once you get it on, you can’t get it off! Diving MUST be worth the effort, right?? Well, I did it. I stayed down for 20 minutes. And then I freaked again. And then I puked again. But that dive counts. This time, I got tired from trying to swim and found myself breathing heavy and then panicked because I felt like I wasn’t getting enough air. NO, I didn’t go on the second dive of the day and therefore didn’t get my scuba certification either. I am leaving in the morning to fly up to Airlie Beach/Shute Harbor where I have plans to sail on a boat around the WhitSunday Islands for 3 days. I will try to complete this course. But if I can’t, or rather…don’t, I’ll be ok with it. I’m trying it, and I might find it’s not for me. Or, I might fall in love with it!
One more note – about food, because it seems all I do is eat. I’ve been having some really good meals! It’s always good to eat what the locals eat, right? My friend Rosanne mentioned “Bugs” to me – and I thought, is she crazy? I would NEVER eat bugs. And that’s actually true. Until I learned that Australian “Bugs” are a type of crustacean that is somewhere in between a lobster, a crab, and a prawn. What could be bad? Mixed with some garlic, olive oil, basil, parmesan cheese, and some linguine…..uh huh.
BUGS!!!
The PERFECT lunch. Proscuitto, feta, olives, beet root, avocado, humus, roasted peppers, sour dough toast, and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc
Spiced Tahitian Fish with Basmati Rice. And live music!
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