Bryan and Nicky picked me up at my hotel around 6pm Friday night as we made our way up to wine country.  The goal was to get there before sundown to watch the spectacular sunset over Cape Town and watch the lights of the city come up and twinkle down below. I sat in the back seat of Bryan’s car while Nicky played DJ up front and Bryan pointed out various places of interest that rolled by.  Ben Howard’s voice filled the car – “Only Love” – couldn’t be a better choice of music for traveling.  I felt very much like I was being filmed in a movie watching the beautiful landscape roll by and the vine-covered mountains coming clearly into view.

Bryan grew up in Stellenbosch on a 236 hectare grape farm. That’s 583 acres.  HUGE!!  His family still lives in the house and farms the property with his eldest brother.  They sell the grapes to the local wineries in Stellenbosch.  While his dad says he is far from wealthy, I couldn’t imagine a better life! When we got close enough for Bryan to point out the boundaries of his family’s land, from the top of the mountain to the valley below and outstretched on either side, it looked like heaven to me.  Peaceful, green vines perfectly lined the land only giving way to ponds or a turn in the landscape. I could have been anywhere in the world had the style of architecture not been obviously distinct.  It’s called Cape Dutch and it is unquestionably beautiful.  The Dutch were the first to settle much of the cape of South Africa, and the vernacular of building style is rooted in Holland, German, France and Indonesia.  It is distinct in that it has a moorish gable as a front to a steeply pitched thatched roof.  As we turned off the main road and pulled into the courtyard of Bryan’s home, my smile went from ear to ear.  The rise and fall of the sloped land, the gardens, the pool, the dotted whitewashed Cape Dutch stuccoed homes on the rolling valley. This was magical, and I was so damn lucky to be allowed this insider’s view to their home. “Do you bring all your guests here?” I asked Nicky.  “No….never!” she replied, and we laughed. “Well, was this the best you could do with the landscape and all?  Couldn’t you have done something more awesome?” I said playfully.  Nicky is quicker than me, and before I could even finish my sarcasm she was already replying, “Yes, sorry, sorry.  We suck.”  Bryan was out of the car and grabbed our bags and we followed him into his house to meet his parents in the kitchen.  

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This isn’t just a house.  Built around 1830, it’s a family home that has been passed on from generations, expanded as families grew, and filled with priceless heirlooms and meaningful memories. The family eats outside under the covered terrace as often as the weather permits, and we entered through this area into the massive kitchen where obviously the heart of this home is kept.  The ceiling height alone was at least 15 feet with exposed rafters and tall cabinetry.  The walls were adorned with blue and white delftware, spice racks, copper cookware, along with pictures drawn by children, some of which are now grown.  But the centerpiece of this kitchen was the AGA ovens, at least 8 feet in length.  (Tracey & Joyce – I hear you moaning half a world away).  Woahhhh.  Bryan’s parents were warm and informal.  Instant hugs and kisses, as if I was one of their own. I was handed a glass of wine and welcomed into their casual way of life. Marie (pronounced MAH-ree with the accent on MAH), Bryan’s mom,  is a strong, opinionated, very attractive blonde who still wears pretty cinched-waist dresses and pearls when she goes out on the town. She was on the phone working when we arrived, and motioned for Bryan to show me my room and get me situated.  Marais, Bryan’s dad, a solid, tall man with a handlebar mustache and not one to smile much, proudly showed me his grandparents’ collection of crystal glasses and decanters that was kept behind the closed doors of an enormous black walnut armoire.  “I hope you like meat!” Marais said as he carried the plate of homemade sausage and lamb filets out to the braai (BBQ).  Oh yeah, this was gonna be fun.  Before dinner we grabbed a bottle of sparkling wine, hopped in the truck and drove up to the top of the mountain with the 4 dogs running along side.  We caught the sun as it sank over the city and watched as the lights grew brighter in Cape Town.  I couldn’t stop smiling.

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The next day we woke up early and headed out to the Slow Market in Stellenbosch for brunch.  The market is held every Saturday on the grounds of the amphitheater.  It has a mix of gourmet foods, many being prepared on site, as well as crafts, clothing, leather goods, and jewelry.  It is very popular with both the locals and the tourists, and the space for vendors is at a high demand.  We walked through the entire market, surveyed all of the food, chose what we wanted to eat, and met back at a round table where a jazz band was playing.  Again, heaven.

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After brunch, Marais and Marie went home, and Nicky, Bryan and I headed out to the wineries.  First stop – Tokara.  Beautiful grounds, modern wood, glass and stone winery, and free tastings.  Most tastings in Stellenbosch are free.  We spent about a half hour tasting as many whites and reds as we could without looking greedy.  We settled on 4 favorites – 2010 Reserve Syrah, 2009 Director’s Reserve Red, 2012 Chardonnay and 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon.  They all ship to the US, but the prices increase drastically.  They ranged from $26 to $51.   Next stop was Haute Cabriere.  This winery is actually built underground, and it’s quite cool (yes literally, but figuratively too!).  Our favorites here were the Unwooded Pinot Noir ($20) and the Pierre Jourdan Belle Rose NV ($28).  We drove through the town of Stellenbosch and the University of Stellenbosch which was similar to Napa with its quaint stores and cafes.  We then drove on to Franschoek, the other popular wine region right next to Stellenbosch, and toured another lovely town on our way to my favorite winery, Babylonstoren.  This is the place to stay if you want the best of everything.  You can rent your own little cottage on the grounds of the vineyard, and you can dine at the restaurant or walk the gardens that are vast and filled with fruits, herbs, flowers, even cacti!!  You are free to pick anything you see and eat it right off the vine or tree or shrub or whatever.  You can shop in their cheese shop or their cured meats shop, or their gorgeous gift shop. It is magnificent wine country.  You can admire the chickens that roam free and the calves and donkeys that are behind a simple fence. To me, this vineyard was the most special of them all.  But of course, I’d only seen 3!!  We were so tired and tipsy we had to forgo our plans to visit Jordan’s winery, a personal friend of Bryan’s family and make our way back to Bryan’s house to pack up and say our goodbyes.

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Driving back to Cape Town, we were all quiet, happy, and spent.  We made plans to have dinner  again Monday night at their apartment which was to be my last night in Cape Town.  I slept like a baby that night filled to the brim with wonderful memories of my gracious hosts and the gorgeous South African wine country.